War and Peace on the Cape Peninsula
A while back I was in South Africa, sunk deep in the heart of the African surf scene, and wondering to myself, why do we surf? Besides the rush that feeds the thrill-seeker, why do we surf? What is it about the water, the waves, the vastness of the ocean that affects us when we get out on our boards? I come full circle in this piece, seeing it first as a battle for empowerment in which one struggles to conquer a natural force to viewing surfing as a communion with the waves…
No comments:
Post a Comment