Surf Girls 52

SURFING LESSON 2.

Getting in the water: right_hand_wave

Before approaching the water, look at where the waves are breaking the cleanest. From right to left or left to right. As you look from the beach a wave that breaks from right to left is called a right hander as in the picture on the right. From left to right is called a left hander, no science degree needed here. A wave that breaks all over the place is a mess, a straight a header or dumpy. Chances are 'the mess' is where you'll be paddling out in to begin learning. Guy surfers generally are greedy for waves and if you paddle out in amongst the crew and proceed to get in their way you'll be told to please hop out the way, or something a bit stronger in some of the limited vocabulary that the lineup contains. Girl surfers tend to be a bit more mellow and a friendlier tone to their speach, for most 'surfer girls' don't have the 'i want to be the star of the break atitude'. Of course there are plenty of surfers both girls and guys that are pretty mellow and share the fun. It's usually in the crowded spots that create the tension, with too many surfers and too little waves. For this reason as a beginner 'chick surfer' it's good to stay away from the pack.

Now I'm assuming you know how to swim, good idea to learn if you don't, but as far as paddling goes swimming muscles and paddling muscles are only slightly related. This is where most surfing beginners fail and either head to the body boarding ranks or armchair sportsman.

Paddling is difficult, it will only get easier by practice in the water. So get yourself out there. Remember Surf Lesson 1, stay calm and just feel the surge of the water as you walk out with your hand on the board. While the waves are small and in close to the shore pick your board up and jump over the break. Your hands are holding the surf board in the front half. As you jump over the wave let your feet leave the bottom and put your weight on the front of the board so you glide over the back of the wave. Stand up and keep pushing forward, until you are safely past the impact zone of the shore dump. Of course if the waves are tiny just walk through them with a small jump up. Okay so now you have a wave that's breaking between you and the beach. If it's dumpy and too shallow there, don't try to surf these, you don't want your board in your face. It's better to wait for a wave that has broken further out and and is a rolling foam of white water as it approaches you.
Your first wave should be a gentle breaking wave that allows you to push yourself off the sand and lets you belly it in to the shore. Remember this is fun, though you may become a bit frustrated, stay cool and cheerful. Don't expect too much but by the first days end you should be lying on your board and paddling a little when the wave catches you and glides you up to the sand on your belly. You should also have had a few trys at getting to your feet. You didn't realise that trying to jump up in one motion was so difficult, did you?