Surf Skate 72

If you watch Stacy Peralta’s Riding Giants you will see Greg Noll and a Happy Few talking about the early years on the North Shore when, “there was nothing else to do, no girls or social life, so basically we surfed our guts out.” That was true of the North Shore for a few decades after. It was a place to come and surf and do not much else. Nightlife was always a long drive away in Waikiki, but most surfers were too beat to bother, so North Shore was all about eat, sleep, surf. Or as Kirk Gallagher put it in the 70s: power, shower devour.