I shared a session the other day with a very friendly group of bodyboarders. They were surfing a typical Oz slab, and the barrels they were getting convinced me to give it a go, despite the fact that it was basically a pop-peak poorly suited to stand-up surfing (of a certain level, at least).
As I played cat-and-mouse with huckers that allowed almost no plausible entry point, I wondered how bodyboarders must feel about the current slab-hunting frenzy that’s being built up in mainstream surf mags. Photo-incentives have driven professional surfers to attack slabs, and general sheep psychology has led more average surfers to follow. Slabs that used to be considered “bodyboarding waves” are now fair game for surfers.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
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