Derek Dunfee is sitting on the bluff overlooking his local spot of Windansea in La Jolla.
There is a two-foot south swell lumping up on the reef, burgeoning its way into the channels on either side of the peak. A pack of frothing grommets devours the ones that don’t cap out the back and unload on virtually dry sand.
Derek turns and jogs to the car; he’s probably going home, maybe doing some training with his brother or some yoga. Perhaps he’s off to pick up a new wetsuit from his sponsor at Matuse.
Related Links:
Once hot Baja surf sports falling dormant | SDNN San Diego surf forecast
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