Surf Points 9

Surfing point breaks
Learn to Surf

There are many different styles of point breaks. They range from wild, heavy and shallow rocky outcrops on the side of a headland, to long gentle sandy coves with a myriad of variations in between.

Some points to break down and study about surfing a point break:

A point break usually has only one primary take-off spot.

A point break usually has heavy crowds all vying for that one spot.

A point break usually has rips and strong currents.

A point break usually has heavy locals, who understand the wave inside out. This understanding will give them the ability to make it through fast sections of the wave. Sections that you may not think someone would normally be able to make. This can be a real issue. As you might feel its safe to take off, after judging that the inside guy wont make the section. Only to find a seriously pissed off local driving straight into you at full speed, because you left them nowhere else to go.



However, a point break can also provide good waves for the beginner, if you know where to look.

Look for these conditions:

A point break can provide good waves for the beginner, if there is an inside bank or re-form

A point break can also provide good waves for the beginner. If it is a long break, there may be a slower section of the wave that is suited to beginners.

A point break can also provide good waves for the beginner if. There is a kiddie's corner. I.e. a protected smaller wave inshore from the main break.

It's not unusual for a point break to have a similar set-up to a beach break, especially where long 'sand cove' point breaks are concerned. Although the waves may be longer, and are all breaking in the same direction, you may still be able to find an inside bank where smaller, less powerful waves will reform.

If there is no reform or inside bank, then look for the slower section of the point break ' it could be down towards the end of the wave but with sand point breaks this is not always the case.

Watch and take your time before you enter the water at a point break. If you can spot a section of the break where the wave is slower, then this will be a good place to sit. Most experienced surfers (except longboarders) will not be interested in the slower section of the point break and will tend to pull off when they hit the slower section, but never take this for granted. Always look back in the direction the wave is coming from and check that nobody is behind you.

Remember, dropping in won't win you any friends.

If you're dealing with a rocky outcrop style of point break, whether it's on the side of a headland or not, it's quite often possible that there will be a Kiddie's corner set-up that is sheltered by the waves off the points main break. This is an ideal safe haven for the learner surfer.

In some cases you'll find, that there simply is no safe place to learn to surf on a point break.

*Important note* about point breaks for those who have had lessons with a surf school.

It's important to learn to do honest surf checks.

The learner must remember that if you are having lessons with a surf school, and they take you to a point break. Then it's because the conditions, on that point break, at that time, are suitable for a 'supervised' surfing lesson. The school has done a 'surf check' for you.

But this doesn't automatically mean the point break in question is always a good place to learn to surf.

You need to do an honest surf check yourself, and remember to not just take it for granted, that the place where you had a lesson is always going to be safe.

When surfing, it's better to assume nothing, conditions change all the time. If in doubt ask the locals.

If you learn to surf on small, long and predictable point breaks, then you'll later find that you have a problem riding anything that is not, small, long and predictable. This would be ok if these breaks were the norm, but they are not. Long predictable sandy point breaks are very rare indeed. This is why these breaks have become so famous. These breaks are a treat, a joy to ride, fun and easy, but you won't learn much that you can use anywhere else. A beach break is usually a much better place to start building your surfing foundation.

Point breaks don't always provide an easy place to paddle out. You might find that sometimes the only way out at a point break is to jump off the rocks. Or you may need to paddle across the bank, where the waves are breaking very fast, to reach the deeper water in the channel, and at some point breaks both. First the rock-hop, then the sprint-paddle. This is a real bummer for the beginner. It requires timing and paddling skills that no learner surfers possess. If timed incorrectly, you either get run over, washed down into the bay, or thrown back up onto the rocks.

With most point breaks you'll also find that a point break will have a very strong current, which runs across the bank, and then down into the bay that the wave breaks into. This means that to get out into the safety of the channel and the deeper water. You must negotiate your way through the surfers riding the waves off the point. Plus through the white water and across a strong current that will push you in exactly the opposite direction to way that you want to go. This all spells disaster for learner surfers. And usually ends with the learner surfer floundering in the white water while trying to not get run over by the surfers on the waves.

The Surfing Gooroo says: point breaks usually break down the line very fast. Beginners often don't realise that the surfer on the wave coming towards them is moving at high speed and this can result in learners putting themselves directly into a collision path with the oncoming surfers.

So, use some common sense where a point break is concerned. Check the conditions before you enter the water. Remember to ask a more experienced surfer if you're not sure.




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