FEAR OF BIG WAVES.
Fear is something to deal with. The body demands an explanation of what has brought you to the thin edge of life of some of these places. If you've read and heard about Big Wave Surfing and are willing to commit to the necessary training. Equivalent to the preparation of a major Olympic class triathlon, you, too, can stand and surf the biggest waves this world has to offer.
Follow the dream of surfing the big waves and your perspective of life may change, some big wave surfers become obsessed by their task of travelling the world. Living off a few dollars they can get selling a photograph, or their body to a magazine. Every year, we read about big wave surfing injuries and deaths on the well known breaks and peaks. Almost invariably, the surfer underestimated the wave and then paid the price.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
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